Finding the perfect balance between deep cleansing and hydration is a game-changer whether your hair is relaxed, natural or color-treated. To help you cut through the noise, we’ve tapped into the wisdom of two hair care experts at the top of their game. Johnny Wright, the textured hair specialist behind some of former First Lady Michelle Obama’s most iconic looks, Tamron Hall’s tresses for her eponymous talk show, and the author of Natural & Curly Hair for Dummies. Keka Heron is a certified trichologist and the powerhouse owner of RENU Therapy Hair Salon in Atlanta, a haven for those seeking rejuvenation and restoration.
Let’s Start With the Basics
BHM: What are clarifying shampoos, and how do their benefits and uses differ from moisturizing shampoos?
Johnny Wright: I swear by clarifying shampoos. I think they’re great, particularly for people who wear their hair natural, because people don’t like the word strips, but it cleanses thoroughly with any build-up that is on the hair.
As a natural, you’re putting a lot of products on your hair. Sometimes, that product can overlap if you wear a wash ‘n go [or a style you are touching between shampoos].
So, to get optimal results with your curls, when you do style, you want to cleanse it thoroughly and strip away all the build-up on your hair. That’s what is so great about clarifying shampoos. It just prepares a great base and foundation for styling and for your curls to be their best.
BHM: What are moisturizing shampoos, and how do their benefits and uses differ from clarifying shampoos?
Johnny Wright: While the clarifying shampoo takes away, the moisturizing shampoo will replenish the hair with a fresh layer of moisture. A lot of times, people don’t like that squeaky-clean feeling, but that is kind of what you want to look for.
The squeaky-clean feeling will be then softened with the moisturizing shampoo. That will be your first layer of moisture when it’s time for your curls to be defined. Anybody knows that when it comes down to curly hair, you have to have moisture because in those bends and turns, in the curls, the sebaceous glands cannot produce oil that goes down the complete length of the strand.
Always start with a clarifying shampoo and follow up with a moisturizing shampoo.
You want to replenish that moisture because your natural oils can’t get down the shaft.
Look For These Key Ingredients
BHM: What key ingredients should we look for in moisturizing and clarifying shampoos to ensure the best results for different hair textures and porosity levels?
Keka Heron: Top clarifying ingredients for all hair types include surfactants, soap-like ingredients that remove dirt and residue, and citrus, which is great for gently removing dirt. For moisturizing shampoos, look for glycerin, oils, and water that nourish and moisturize hair. Shea butter, Argan oil, and Jojoba oil for porous hair are excellent for keeping your hair hydrated and sealed. Ingredients that hydrate and strengthen, such as B5, Aloe, proteins, argan oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter, should also be considered. Choosing a shampoo with the right ingredients gives your hair the nutrients it needs to sustain moisture and maintain a healthy scalp.
Scalp Issues: Natural Hair
BHM: What common scalp issues for those with natural hair, and how can they be addressed?
Johnny Wright: I think one of the common scalp issues you can see is flakiness and psoriasis of the scalp. That pretty much is what causes dandruff. Those are the main things, itchiness and things like that.You combat that with moisture.
When your scalp is really itchy and flaky, you know it is not getting the proper moisture.Often, people forget about the scalp and focus on the strands.
But the scalp is the foundation; it’s where your hair comes from, so you must also keep that healthy.
Relaxed and Color-treated Hair
BHM: What is your top hair care tip for maintaining healthy, relaxed hair?
Johnny Wright: So, in a relaxer is the chemical sodium hydroxide, which shifts the bonds in the hair strands so they can go straight. In that process, you lose a lot of moisture in your hair. What you want to do is replenish that moisture.
I love masks, period, but I love masks for relaxed hair because you need that intense moisture.
Masks are highly concentrated and do the job quickly, leaving hair nice and moisturized.
BHM: What should individuals with color-treated natural hair consider doing on wash days?
Johnny Wright: In removing your natural pigment and replacing it with a new hair color, your hair loses a lot of moisture.
So, you want to make sure you do steam treatments. Steam treatments are great for natural, relaxed, or color-treated hair.
If you want to keep your color vibrant, if you have a nice bright color, steam treatments will do the job all the time because you’re going to get that intensive moisturization with your mask and also with the steam, and it’s going to help you fight against humidity as well.
Assessing and Adjusting Your Routine
BHM: What signs indicate a shampoo is not working well for the hair?
Keka Heron: If the hair feels tacky or greasy, too dry and brittle, or still has an odor after shampooing, or if scalp issues persist without improvement in four weeks, the shampoo isn’t working.
BHM: How should hair care routines be adjusted for different seasons?
Keka Heron: In the winter, hair and scalp are usually drier, so use more hydrating and moisturizing products. Include scalp, hot oil, and steam treatments in your routine. In the summer, hair and scalp remain moist due to humidity, so use moisturizing products that help control frizz, possibly with added silicone, depending on the hair type.
Our Top Picks for Shampoos
Johnny and Keka have shown us why it’s important to cleanse your scalp with care. Let’s dive into their favorite shampoo recommendations to elevate your hair game.
Clarifying Shampoo Picks
OURX Detox Cleanse Complex contains AHA + BHA to remove dead skin from the scalp and hair gently. This cleanser leaves your hair and scalp refreshed and balanced. $29.00
Top Moisturizing Picks
Cécred Hydrating Shampoo is infused with hyaluronic acid for intense moisture and is an African oil blend that promotes hair health. It will leave your hair feeling soft, manageable, and strong. Price: $31.00
Design Essentials Almond Avocado Shampoo is enriched with Sweet Almond Oil and Avocado Extract and gently cleanses while providing intense hydration and nourishment. Price: $12.99
Briogeo Don’t Despair Super Moisture Shampoo: A nourishing formula, enriched with B vitamins and Rosehip + Sweet Almond Oils, delivers intense hydration and fortifies your hair from root to tip. Price: $39.00
De’Anasa Haircare Hydralux Hydrating Shampoo is crafted with nourishing ingredients, including Jojoba and Vitamin B, to help maintain moisture balance and leave your hair soft, manageable, and conditioned. Price: $18.00
Top Treatment Pick
OURX Intensive Conditioning Compound has Hydrolyzed Rice Protein to strengthen and improve hair elasticity, this conditioner leaves your hair feeling soft, smooth, and revitalized. Price $37.00
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