Horror stories from Black women and their experience with popular synthetic braiding hair brands prompted scientific testing to find out what is causing medical issues, according to Consumer Reports.
As Black women have been sporting protective styles for decades, new revelations may highlight that they do more harm than looking good. Scientists tested 10 popular synthetic braiding hair products to see if they contain heavy metals and volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and found carcinogens, lead, and VOCs such as acetone.
In 2023, a student at the Albert Einstein College of Medicine and the City University of New York, Chrystal Thomas, started to feel severe discomfort after getting braids using synthetic hair brand Kanekalon. Shortly after receiving the service, Thomas said she couldn’t sleep, felt irritation in her throat and the smell caused her to have trouble focusing on her work. “The smell wouldn’t go away even after washing my hair multiple times,” she said.
She removed the braids after just a week and a half — which is unusual, as Black women tend to wear styles for several weeks — and started to investigate possible health issues that could be linked to braiding hair. Thomas published her findings in a commentary article highlighting the risks of carcinogenic materials in hair products targeting Black women and bringing up the question of synthetic hair safety. Some products are made with a copolymer of modacrylic and vinyl chloride, in addition to other chemicals linked to adverse health effects. “What is unique about braid extensions is the length of exposure users have to them,” Thomas said.
“Synthetic braids are typically worn for about four to six weeks. Black women and other individuals who use synthetic hair are, therefore, exposed to those ingredients consistently during that time.”
In 2023, reports showed the U.S. market for these products was valued at close to $3 billion, with the anticipation of reaching $6.34 billion by 2029. With Black women being the primary users of such products, testing shows how high usage may be potentially putting Black communities at risk.
Scientist Eric Boring said the synthetic braiding hair brands tested — including Sensationnel, Sassy Collection, Magic Fingers, Shake-N-Go, and more — all contained multiple carcinogens, including three products that contained benzene, known for causing acute myeloid leukemia. Rogers said the carcinogen is “discouraged to use in laboratories because of its potential to cause cancer.” Two other products contained an animal carcinogen, and all samples contained methylene chloride, a probable carcinogen.
Despite the findings, brands like Hair Zone/Sensationnel and Magic Fingers defended their products, releasing a statement saying they “unequivocally stand by the safety of Sensationnel products, and our company urges consumers to continue to confidently use Sensationnel products,” according to ABC 6. “We strongly stand by the safety of our products and the quality materials used to make them,” Magic Fingers said.
Before purchasing and installing products in your head, experts recommend that Black women check for product recalls, read labels carefully, and limit the duration of the style as a precaution to reduce health risks.
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